Why buy the diamond separately

Buying the center stone on its own gives you control. You pick the exact diamond, see its report and video, and pay for the stone without a jewelry store's markup built in. Then a jeweler you choose sets it.

The trade-off is coordination. You're managing two purchases and a handoff instead of one. This guide is about making that handoff go smoothly.

Before you order: questions for your jeweler

Talk to whoever will set the stone before you buy. Ask:

• Do you accept customer-supplied diamonds? Lab-grown?
• What are the setting's target dimensions, and how much tolerance is there?
• What's the prong plan, and how will the corners or points be protected?
• What do you charge for setting labor, and how long does it take?
• Do you inspect the stone first? Do you ask customers to sign a liability form?
• Are you responsible for the stone while it's in your care?

Expect to pay a setting fee. Most jewelers charge to set a stone they didn't sell, while stones they sell themselves are usually set for free. There's no fixed price for this. Every jeweler sets their own rate, so ask for it in writing before you order.

Axiom's pricing calculator builds this in. It adds an estimated setting fee based on industry-standard rates to our diamond price, and it accounts for the free setting a store would give you on its own stone. That way the comparison you see is the full cost on both sides, not a loose diamond price next to a finished ring price. Your jeweler's actual quote may be higher or lower than the estimate.

Matching a diamond to an existing setting

Don't assume a new diamond will fit because its carat weight matches the old one. Length, width, total depth, girdle thickness and shape all affect fit.

Ask your jeweler to measure the existing setting and tell you the range of dimensions it will accept. Then compare those numbers to the measurements on each diamond's report. On an IGI report, a round's measurements are written like 6.48 - 6.51 x 3.98 mm, meaning minimum diameter, maximum diameter and depth. Fancy shapes list length x width x depth.

A tenth of a millimeter can matter. If a stone is on the edge of the range, ask the jeweler before ordering rather than after.

Buying a loose diamond for a custom ring

For a custom ring, pick the design and the stone together. The usual order:

1. Agree on the design and a target stone size range with the jeweler.
2. Choose the diamond, and send the jeweler its report number and exact length, width and depth.
3. Let the jeweler finalize the setting to those dimensions.
4. Get the design, labor cost, timeline and responsibility for the stone in writing.

Custom settings usually cost more than a standard mounting and take longer. Axiom sells the loose stone. The finished ring is a separate purchase from your jeweler.

Your return window and the sealed case

Every Axiom diamond ships in a clear acrylic case that's double-sealed so the right stone stays in the right case. You can inspect the diamond through the case, compare it to the report and video, and see it in different light without breaking the seal.

You have 15 calendar days from delivery to return the diamond for any reason, as long as it stays in its original unopened, sealed acrylic case and is returned with its original IGI grading report (certificate). The diamond, case and report must be in original condition. Opening the case ends return eligibility. So does mounting or setting the stone.

That shapes the handoff:

• Do all your checking through the case first.
• Have the jeweler build or size the setting from the report measurements while the stone is still sealed.
• Only open the case when you've decided to keep the diamond and the setting is ready for it.

The full terms are in the refund and return policy.

What your jeweler will need

• The diamond, once its report measurements have been checked against the setting.
• The IGI report or report number, so the jeweler can confirm the stone's identity.
• Written confirmation of the setting plan, timing, charges and responsibility while the stone is in their care.

If the jeweler holds on to the report during the work, ask for it back with the finished ring. It stays part of the stone's records after mounting.

Get it in writing

Confirm who's responsible if the stone is chipped, lost or damaged while it's being shipped to them or set. Ask how the finished ring will be inspected and whether they offer a workmanship warranty.

These are the jeweler's terms, not Axiom's and not the grading lab's. A short email confirming them is enough. You just want it on record.

The final check

When the ring is ready, compare the stone to your report and order records. Look at it under a loupe if you can. Keep the report with the jeweler's invoice, the setting specs and any appraisal.

An appraisal is useful for insuring the finished ring. It doesn't replace the grading report, and it's worth getting one shortly after setting so your insurance reflects the complete piece.

Continue reading